Gattefossé recently launched Definicire, its first hair care ingredient. The company’s researchers have applied their knowledge in lipochemistry to develop an ingredient that mimics the beneficial conditioning and protective properties of hair sebum without the greasiness.

Central to the composition are high molecular weight esters found in the hull of the sunflower seed and in jojoba seeds. These esters are reacted with polyglycerol to improve spreading on the hair surface and to ensure a homogeneous film. Tests demonstrate that hair regains hydrophobicity and is protected from humidity and frizz. The hair becomes easier to manage and is smooth to the touch, also style is maintained for longer periods of time.

Silab has been working for several years to find a composition that can substitute silicones in hair treatment products.

“We discovered that naturally occurring sebum really is the best conditioner for hair. With over-washing, thermal aggression and pollution, sebum cannot always play the role it is designed for and hair becomes damaged and exposed,” said Vincent Hubiche, who is in charge of the applications development for the Gattefossé group.

He said Definicire is close to sebum in chemical structure, but with slightly higher carbon chain lengths to optimize performance and avoid greasiness.

“The sensory properties of the hair after treatment were key in this development. We fine-tuned the composition to avoid oiliness in appearance or on touch. Our teams in Singapore and in Brazil tested the formulations to evaluate the effectiveness of the humidity barrier. We are very satisfied with the results,” Hubiche said.

More info: www.gattefosse.com